Adventure Diplomacy Dairy of Mt.Aconcagua 6961m South America

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7SUMMITS IN 7CONTINENTS,ADVENTURE DIPLOMACY,

connecting people through Mountains and empower women through Mountain Adventures

Our family came to the airport to say goodbye, our mom, dad, brothers,bhabi and cousins. It was mid night, they were excited so we . my mother was worried ,so looked my father. Then it showed check in for Dubai.EK.065, Samina & me guide our trolleys with bags and moved in to the entry gate. The official usually checked the tickets and said ok please proceed, at the checking point, there were some officials. Police and others. I was with my T-shirt (l love Pakistan) ,some of those guys looked at us with amazed when saw our rock  sacks and big duffle bags, then the guy came up and asked what you do? I said, mountain climbing. And said are you those two brothers and sister, I said yes. He then guide us to his senior and he was so happy and wished us good, he said we are proud of you people, you are proud of our nation and so our hero’s. We were very happy with behavior of airport officials. This time I felt very nice at the airport without any trouble. We went to the check in counter. And immediately got checked in. without any trouble we went to the lounge and kept waiting for three hours. It was long wait, then finally the announcement to board the aircraft,

First time travelled with Emirates and found it nice when we were welcome on the aircraft. Well seated and the lady helped me to put the rock sacks in the hand carry cabin.

The fly was incredible nice, in few hours we arrived Dubai airport, I wondered from the plan when saw all the lighting of the city. Amazing all men made.. and then recalled how beautiful is my country with all natural beauties and yet not explored … any way the landing at Airport in Dubai I literary didn’t felt, it was that much smooth!! Very nicely done airport.

I made mistake by not asking where to collect our luggage and then kept on looking for our language, time was running out to check-in for Buenos Aires. I asked at the information counter and they said you will get the luggage in Buenos aires. The relief and run to the check in counter. There was huge queu. We went and shoed our tickets and it said Standby. Though they gave us new ticket in seconds, we rushed to the plan ,

The flight was long and tiring what we assumed but smoothly the at the end. We loved the flight. The crew were so nice and polite and very helpful. Served well and treat well.  Hours later in the sky flew over Pacific Ocean then landed at Rio De Janerio one of the largest city of Brazil, the flight was the longest ever I travelled before,  an hour wait then flew to Buenos Aires. Its three-hour flight, finally landed in the evening at the airport. Everything looked so nice and perfect. The Immigration treat us well and I never felt if I was treated differently, even my favourit shirt was on me purely stated I love Pakistan and the flag. We were treated same as others and in minutes getting the necessary things done, we were free and left for the hotel.

It was dark and we went to LAN office to buy our ticket for Punta Arenas Chile. Since we were going to apply for Chile Visa in Buenos aires. With help of Pakistani embassy.  Though the price at the Airport was very expensive.

We took the  Taxi to the hotel. What I felt very terribly bad was the language no body likes to speak English or don’t’ speak English, the taxi drive didn’t’ speak English but we went with him, first he took us to hostels in the downtown its almost 42km from the airport. In the down town we looked around but the hostels were almost full and some very bad, dirty hostels .so decided to go to a hotels the found Scala hotel. Just along the main highly, we checked in and went to the room straight, it was 10pm almost. After some food we slept. It was Great day, flight, we flew for 19hours to reach Buenos airs.!

Day02.

Morning was very early the sun touched my face and I woke up and open the window what a beautiful view and the color of trees and well paved and beautiful roods, separate lane for cars, bus, super loved the first sight , what I noticed around the sighn boards, are all in Spanish, no English!! Wah!

After break fast, I went to look for guidebook and ticket for Chile. But due to Sunday everything was closed. Samina was resting and I was looking around in the streets. No one spoke English no sing of English. Very hard to locate places.

I kept on walking and just marked the blocks how far I went and where I turnJ so I should not wander around.

I loved the city where I walked everything is well managed and planed and people strictly obey the law. Couldn’t find too many motorbikes and  NO smoky buses or Cars. That is how the air was fresh and no foggy. People like cycle more than motorbikes, people dress very different and every one look so fresh. Hadly cold see beared people  and long hairs.

When going down the road, at the hotel one of the famous football team stayed and big double story bus and lots of security bikes around minutes later the were in the football ground and cheering crowd.

Most of the day we rest and slept. Skype with family and then again rest.

Day3.

Today was Monday and we had to rush to the offices to get our Chile Visa application process done, since today are supposed to be in Mendoza. So if we don’t work out things we will stay behind.

In the morning we rent a car and then went to the LAN sales office to buy our tickets, it was very expensive on the desk, then we booked online it was much economical. The guy helped me to buy online since I don’t have credit card but gladly could use debit card.

The tickets in the hand and rushed to Pakistani Embassy, Mr.Anser Zaidi one of the MOST LOVELY person every I have met in my life, his timely email when I request him for help from Pakistan, he respond so quickly and proved a very honest dedicated diplomat. In his email he had mentioned that he wouldn’t be leaving for Pakistan on 1^st of December so was referred to the new officer. But when we reached the office a guy at the gate greet us and told us to Waite. We didn’t introduce ourselves to him, he was though a nice guy. After filling the register he guide us to waiting room, and said Anser sahib is in meeting.

In a few minutes a lady came and said your letter is ready and Anser sahib will come to meet you , then in minutes Very Kind and helpful Person came to meet us, he was so NICE and so humble and so kind. He talked to us and said lets meet His Excellence Ambassador of Pakistan.Mr.Imtiaz Ahmed. We met him in his office and the new Head of Chancellery Mr.Sharas Asim was also there, it was very nice to see when the high official of the country treat you well. We were very honored and enjoyed the meeting, His Excellence offered tea, he appreciated Samina and her summit of mt.Everest being first Pakistani woman, he also Admire our work for the country, he also talked about his long time service for Pakistani Janpan and the tourism he worked , truly wonderful personality, then I realized we met Mr.Imtiaz somewhere, and recalled at the funeral ceremony of our Chines friends those who were killed in Nanga Parbat base camp. Small world!

Mr.Anser gave us the recommendation letter for Chile Visa and it was nicely done in Spanish. Thank you Mr.Anser Sahib being so helpful!!!

Then the car drove to Chile Consulate, it was very slow and after hours of wait we could get our number. The lady didn’t speak English and called her boss. She spoke to us and read out the Spanish recommendation letter we got from Pakistani Embassy, she was so happy and she said congratulations to Samina. She smiled and guide us next steps and we filled out a form and submit our documents. She was so happy and said it will take 20days to approve Visa, meanwhile enjoy your time in Argentina and we have plenty of time here before going to Chile then to Antarctica. we from there went to the Hotel picked our languages and went to the airport to fly to Mendoza.

The most interesting thing we noticed was finding the address without problem, every car, taxi has GPS system, you just enter the Address and the GPS guides you to the location, without wandering around, we do in Pakistan, its amazing without minutes we reached our locations through GPS.saved time, saved money, truly amazing, we wish if this also get introduced in Pakistan, this is very nice technology.

After picking our Luggage’s from the hotel we rushed to the airport to buy ticket and fly to Mendoza. We reached the big airport purchased ticket but then the lady told me, please go to the domestic airport from there you will fly to Mendoza. So we had to rush back to the domestic airport.

While purchasing ticket I was going to pay in dollars then a gentlemen stepped and said ,if I give you Pesos you give me the Dollars, he gave me Pesos and I gave him the dollars but he took 300 instead 400 and paid for the ticket , I saved 140$ this  was crazy ,I said why I saved 140$? He said the official exchange rate is 1:6 but in black 1:9. Waw this is crazy, I found currpotioin here too, very bad corruption…

We took taxi and then rushed to domestic airport. We arrived on time but found hundreds of thousand people standing to get check in. it was long queue to follow. After hours the flight got delay but we could manage to check in. then went to board the flight, in ten minutes there was announcement due to unknown reason the flight has been cancelled and we were told to leave the aircraft, we dismount the aircraft and went to the check in area . no body speak English and it was crazy situation we couldn’t find our luggage’s and no one to help us out with language. Finally I managed to reached the counter and asked for help, the desk person said can’t say anything nearly 10flights got cancelled and there was huge protest. People were shouting, chanting and clapping calling shame to the airline management, finally due to long protest the managed announced that the Mendoza flight LA4248 new timing is 11PM. We were relived. After 7hours of wait at the airport we board the aircraft. After 1.40minutes we landed Mendoza. It was 1.30am already, when we arrived at airport,no one from our outfitter there, very bad feeling for the outfitter ,we took a taxi and went ot NH hotel. Where we had our reservation. We checked in and big sleep.

Day4

In the morning some one called in the room and introduced him, Nicolas our guide from Ayamara. I went down stairs and greet him and he said lets go to pay the fee and everything, later in the evening we leave for the first camp. I was not very much impressed. Samina was very tired. Jetleg and less of sleep since last night 7hours delay in flight and waiting at airport was truly exhausting. I said NO and  he agreed, he called the office and informed them that we are not going today  rather resting. Then Nicole said lets go and check gears if you need to rent something, I said we have everything … then we came back to the hotel ,I bought two pair of sun glasses, since Sun glasses never like me and just leave me or break ) I changed and then went down stairs. Nicolas and myself went to the Office of Ayamara. The sales manager. Falavia came to welcome me at the door, then guide me through narrow doors to the top floor. The floor was not well furnished, I cold see three computers, printers and four other ladies. I greet and made my routine Joke. And said thank you for inviting for BreakfastJ

In the office we talked and the first thing was about our stay and extra cost! This was truly rubbish! We had paid and then asked for Additional 800$ then the hotel extra.. all was not impressive. The excuses she made was not realistic, I have been guiding in the Karakorum for 12years and I know how things go and this extra charge was not very nice .  I tried to tell her the reason but she was very much in to getting the extra, I was angry and I paid the extra…

We later went to the hotel and rest.  In the evening went to the tourism office to pay the park fee which was 1200$ each. After paying the fee, we were giving the permit to enter the park, the people there were Amazing ,very friendly and nice, though people in Argentina are nice and smiling,  most of the time you see people in half dress and 90%listen to the music, the interesting thing I noticed. When you walk around you will find 75%women and 25%men in the streets or walking around.   Its very impressive to see the electric buses and trains running donw the streets with very economic fair. Its indeed great. The parks, the roads  are wide and traffic single s are very effective. No one dares to cross the road or break the traffic. Its what I loved. I recall how sad that the leaders of our country visit these countries and why don’t the learn from them and make our country beautiful and fix and establish beautiful infrursturture.

After getting the permit we wet not another shop to rent helmet but things are amazingly expensive, the helmet that costs 30 to40$ here in Mendoza you rent them for this price. Its just crazy expensive, though most of the things are very expensive compare to Pakistan.

After not agreeing on price of helmet we decided not to rent. Then went to the main shopping market. Very neat and clean though our shopping malls are well equipped and furnished too. The one in Mendoza we went was so beautiful and everything area is marked with tags and different products. The only trouble is with Language. Everything is in Spanish. No any single word of Englsih ,then we realized how proud the feel of their language that they don’t speak English and developed/produced everything in their Language.

We shopped necessary things for our Trek/climb, additional food, bars and sweets.etc.. in the evening went to the hotel. The hotel we stayed is called NH hotels, its nice hotel and cost wise per night is Very expensive than Pakistan. Even though its 3star hotel.  Samina went to sleep and I went to the nearest park and enjoyed the view and tried to learn the nature of people.

I could see most of the women are overweight compare to male  in Argentina, most of the people listen to the music when go to the park, boys and girls freely walk around ,I saw young boys with skates, and tried rough skating, I also saw martial art players in the park with some very crazy gymnastics.  In the middle of park a very lovely statue of a horse and a man having arrow in his hands. Some other texture on the statue. Which of course is in Spanish.

The city of Mendoza is so beautiful, along the road, the trees are nicely trimmed, the houses are double story and few tall buildings, the housing is more like Islamabad, low boundary walls. And double story . people have dogs and cats . the traffic signals are perfectly working  . no problem with electricity.  After settling thins we went to the room and had nice dinner. Internet was not very fast ,so couldn’t do much.. time to sleep!

Day 5

The morning we woke up was very early, its different time zones so we wake up early in the morning, though we were  told to get up early and get everything packed , when I woke up  it was 6am and the meeting time was 8am, I worked on my blog and some other things, Samina already packed her duffle bag and pack too . then I charged everything ,laptop.stallete phone and mobiles though they didn’t charge well, the connector is different than usual.

Time arrived we rushed down to the restaurant and ate our breakfast when Nicolas appeared. We then took the bags to the van and check out from the hotel. The bus was outside and was pretty big, the high roof left for the other office to collect   our food. it took almost half hour to get started.

The high roof cruised down the road nicely done, neat and clean then again the electric buses and train. Purely loved the ride to get on main high way, in half hour we stopped at a petrol pump, we purchased juice and cookies for the further journey. Normally in in Pakistan and Nepal the outfitters buy everything when we leave for the trip. Here is different, you have to pay for extra things.

After four hours drive on a nice well paved road though one way with big line to divide the road. Huge lorries and buses run both ways with full speed. Never felt a jolt or bump through out the journey till the entrance of the park

The view more or less like shimshal Chathperth. So beautiful hills and no snow on them. Just rough bushes and planets, the river is very small stream that comes down from the park.

We finally reached the entrance of Parque Aconcagua Pronvincial.our group was ahead of us a day, so me and samina were going with a guide. Our luggage’s were sent to the Mulls and we checked in to the park. There were few other people from other company, may be 9people, we singed in the entry register and start the hike.

Samina on and Mt.Aconcagua in the distance.photo.Mirza Ali,Pakyouthreach.com

the trek to the first camp is nothing like trekking in the Karakorum, flat and gentle ascent. Could saw interesting lizards, large Yellow color and few self-planted trees. The hike was good and the heat was increasing. Then we rest for lunch while a herd of Mulls carrying our and other group stuffs. In the Karakorum we normally have human porters. And here Mulls have replaced the job.

Another two hours and we were in Pampa de Lenas the first camp. We met two other groups going to attempt the Peak. One of the guide met us and said he Had visited Pakistan twice and admire the hospitality and respect people give to the foreingers, specially in Gilgit-Baltistan- Hunza.

In the Karakorum things are way different, here the clients need to pitch the tents and fix other things, while in the Karakorum or Himalaya’s the porters/guide look after it. Things found very different here… totally different, the only thing I felt is making money!!!

The dinner was served ,it was windy though we ate some food/bread and then bed time. I was worried when checked the satellite phone which was not working!!! And the worries started not connecting with family!

Day 6

We woke up early packed our bags and putdown the tents. Here is the rule when you pack your bags and tent must leave it at the same place from where you picked them, since the Mulls are loaded in the same place and Mulls owner don’t go around to collect the bags.

We put the bags and tent in the same place ,had our meal and filled our bottles. Every camp has Park Rangers with Argentinian Flag!

Later we left for the second camp.

I wanted to walk fast but the guide was little childish, he wanted to follow him and no one step ahead of him should walk in line and NO different pace. The landscape changed and it was lovely site. We could see the small hills with wild bushes and beautiful mountains. All colorful. After two hours we could see a Hair, the only wild animal we encounter of two days trek.

As usual we have packed lunch, after half-day rest we had our lunch while the other group over passed us. Normally the guide gave us in the morning, an apple, two bars, either sandwich or bread with chees, beef or chicken, few sweets.

The hike to second camp was usual flat and easy. We reached second camp within five hours of fast hike. Here also found the Park Rangers. We placed our tent and grabbed our luggage’s. The other two team also reached and we placed our tents to each other. In this camp there was running water in piple but the guide didn’t allow us to wash our feet. Since it was for drinking but still the water was going out of the tub, it was insane,

The diner was served inside our tent, since there was no mess or dining tent. Neither they have on the treks. It was good day but over all not Very NICE, the landscape and hike was good but the behavior was not Very Friendly!

Day 7

In the morning we woke up pretty early according to the guide today we have long day and  uphill hike most of the time, thus we had to get up early and pitch down the tent and leave. The breakfast was light and hot water. we ate our breakfast and then the cold chill. Today we had to cross a small stream at two places. It was very similar to Zarsnik river in the shimshal Pamir, divided stream.. I didn’t want to cross it by foot wanted to avoid cold water specially Samina. We wanted to ride the Mulls and cross it, the leader asks 50Pesos for two people. Strange.. we crossed the stream and then the trek, before us there was another group ,they let early in the morning almost an hour before us.

The hike was not that bad steep nor difficult it was just open trail with beautiful view and gentle uphill. In two hours we could reach the view point of Mt.Aconcagua, its stunning view and beautiful landscape. The small river blow the trail was outstanding. We made few pictures here and then again on the trail. The guide always wanted me to hike behind him and just go slow. Which I don’t like to follow others pace unless I have clients!

The walk was going usual slow and half hour or so we caught up with other group, they were having break for lunch and we over took them, it was mild hot day but the landscape was incredible. We made few photos with banners/flag and then stopped as the guide wanted. It was half or less hour to base camp of Mt.Aconcagua. Plaza Argentina. The lunch was today packed rice and peas.

When we reached base camp, it was much dry and strange, no glacier no snow capped mountains. It was all dry mountains except the east face and the polish glacier having some snow on the face!

The guides welcome us and introduced to the base camp and shared his love and work experience over few years! He then said hope we will experience well too!!!

In minutes we were outside the main dining tent. The guy with threaded hair came and introduced him Martin and then welcome us from the base camp side.

Then guide us to the main dining tent where we met two South African friends. Michael and Wyne . Then sudden a new familiar friend appeared. Prem from India , prem we met while Climbing Mt.Everest, a young passionate Mountain and Nature lover, he is also pursuing his 7summits with him another guy Chris also greeted and he is his friend and photographer, they just came from Indonesia climbing Carstensz pyramid! This was very chilling to have same language speaker and from Neighborhood! Its fact that not only me, many may have similar experience outside the territory we neighbors feel like brothers..i met few Indians on Mt.Everest and now again prem and  didn’t feel we are deadly enemies J

Well then we met another friend Mr.Rudy from Switzerland  Mr.Hans from Germany.Mr.Lawerance from America. Mr.Chris from Estonia, we had a multi nations group!! There were several more groups scared around the base camp!

Most interesting thing I found that through the trek there were shelters and Park Rangers and kept the park so clean! Thought there is not much wildlife but maintained it well! Every ranger camp has Argentina national Flag! That is just too good!

After Greetings, Hello hi ,time for Lunch we ate our lunch and then pitched our tent at base camp, here NO one would put up your tent, you are the one to do it for yourself J

We were little tired and in the tent, the wind starts kicking hard and fast!it was pretty cold now even in the tent, then samina remind me of Art saying that Mt.Aconcagua can be very cold and that was the experience started! In the evening we had some meal and then Martin came up with a note and started talking that we are heading to Camp I. we just arrived today and no rest … its crazy…despite paying 900USD extra still we have to go without rest!!

He breified us and was strange tune, I never experienced this in the Karakorum nor in Nepal. We do jeneral talks and mostly ask clients what they want… we just share our point of view and ask their output and opinion here I found they just impose their opinion and want the clients to follow them.

Any way time was set for the morning and told us we would be carrying our food for upper camps… and also our gears if there are extra!

Time to sleep… the sad thing that I was screwed.. the Satellite phone didn’t work and they don’t’ have Generator to charge batteries of our laptops. Nor phones. Internet they said is not working and per minute its 15USD! This is just unbelievable. Some how we managed to go to bed… I start feeling depressed from the beginning,,,thought this outfitter is NOT appropriate to continue though the indications I had from the Ambassador back in Pakistan but now all in vain!! I

Day 8

Morning was chill and no bed tea ,we had to go to put our tent and then breakfast or breakfast and put down the tent . we went to have the breakfast and the water was frozen, in few minutes a base camp staff came to run the water,in base camp the outfitters have placed pipe lines from near stream and have big tanks where they reserve the water in the night due to below 0 temperature they stop the water supply to the tanks.

Well then breakfast time, the guide again came up with his little notepad and repeated speeches. We finished with our breakfast and put down the tent, packed our food for higher camps, put the big boots the ones we used on Mt.Everest, two side of the topic, at one point its very chill and windy mountain at the other hand using Mt.Everest shoe here is inappropriate ..

Then every one were ready and we continue for Camp I, we had no rest as stated earlier. The team were very fast and this time we had three guides and 9climbing clients from Different countries. The guide said just follow his pace and where he deems rest must rest and then continue. Its all just his instruction we have to follow!

In group its starnge but looked more like we are employees are climbing clients J we had heavy boots and packs , the path is pretty open and easy ,its through scree and rocks and little snow patches. We continue to a big boulder where is the first stop. We were told to drink and rest for 10minutes, then a minute later for Helmets. We had no helmets and we said we have signed paper that we wouldn’t  use helmet…

Mt.Aconcagua has no big glaciers like Baltoro or Concordia or any other .very dry and very little snow patches in the middle of the murrain . the team were fast, after two breaks we were just blew camp I, a steep traverse to the shoulder.on the right side it had small patch of snow and on the left just scree and rocks.

The guide told us to use our crampons and that was absolutely hilarious for any climbing/guide. For me it was epic surprise! Well we have to obey the guide we put the crampons on snow and climbed half till we reached the base of the rock section 20meters below camp I.

CampI was pretty windy even it was complete sun shine ,some people were ahead of us and resting at camp I , we were welcome at campI and inquired about our health and feelings. Long speech again and again …we dropped our packs and then advice for rest same time to eat our lunch .

In couple of minutes our all food that we carried for higher camps were collected and labeled our names on them and put in big sack and we got ready to leave. Some of the fellows had already carried their higher camps gear as well.

Going down was very easy as per our experience of Karakorum and Himalayas. I wanted to rush down the scree since it was soft and easy going down.. but the guide said he wouldn’t allow me to go down on my own pace… then he stopped me and Samina in a place where it was more sliding area.. his  professional experience was zero here to make us wait at rock fall area!!!

In an hour we were at base camp. All were fine few of our friends had headache and tired. I wanted to go quick to interview and photo as many people as I could for my “Adventure diplomacy” 7Summits in 7Continents, connecting People through mountains”

A cup of tea and then start walking around the camps to interview and take photos for the documentary and photo book. Inka team were so nice to be the first to cooperate with me, then went to Peter and Ursula of P&K GROUP, they were very generous Peter and Ursula offered coffee and hot water, and then the photos. Jessica Peter and Ursula and the entire team so kind for my work so easy! then went to Park Rangers doctor for check up. The check up was fine and normal.

Then I could manage internet and sent a message on Facebook to friends and family back home!!!

At dinner table the guide repeated things from today and talked about next step. Tomorrow is rest day ,so after dinner we talked late night but again had no power to charge anything and couldn’t update our dairy!  During the night our team talked about their countries and shared lots of experiences.. it is a great team I released! Samina was feeling absolutely wonderful since after long time she climbed through scree and rocks with her big boots but was feeling extremely strong. Though today she was just climbing with her waters… she was little down as well because she is the only female in the group! But doing perfect!!!

Day 9

Rest Day.

As part of my project we Adventure diplomacy I had to take more interview and photos of different people at the base camp and some were supposed to leave today for Camp I and higher!

Morning was calm not too windy as compare to previous day, after breakfast I carried my camera’s and then went to camps to take more photos and video, Ben of Alpine Ascents and Jon were very kind to let me take photo of their clients. Ben I know from Mt.Everest, very kind mate and John also very nice .

After taking several shots and photos I came back to the mess tent to take photo and video of our team members.

Most of the people loved my climbing concept and purpose of climbing, national message global message of women empowerment and promotion of tourism in Pakistan. They loved the concept of making documentaries and photo book of the Adventure diplomacy.

Then the evening and the meeting again… the guide gave long speech since tomorrow was the day we are on the mountain and to pursue the goal of reaching the summit of South America highest Mountain. He then explained things and for me he made it more complicated and scared more of the climbers, those who had no high altitude experience or less experience, he didn’t guarantee or showed support to the clients and even us ,me & samina were worried after his speech.. Specially we had no thermos flask for hot water in the mountain, we have but we forgot to bring it with us, some how we managed our sleep though not much sleep!!! Late night I was thinking and planning things … it was bad night to be honest, we prayed and prayed though we pray every night. So lets see tomorrow morning!

Day 10

Morning looked good not much wind. We put down the tent and carried it to the common place, we separated our stuffs those we wouldn’t need on the mountain, they would be carried to the plaza Mullas on the other side/base camp of the mountain. We then eat our breakfast while the guides were there; all sudden during breakfast Lawrence said he has an announcement. He is abandoning the climb and going back home, I realized it was all of the last night speech from the guide, the dude scared us and so others as well.. We would never give such speeches on the mountains in the Karakorum and Himalaya’s, in my 13years of climbing I never got scared the way I was last night! The kind thing of Lawerence was he announced his thermos bottle for me and Samina, it was indeed a kind deed , washed out our worries J

After breakfast the guide showed us how to pack our bags and what we need. All childish things… then finally we were ready with two litters of water, packed lunch  , then we go!

Very slow pace and easy going, repeated things several times like last time, every break had different lead guide and every one has to obey their pace and all has to go in line J

Four breaks and again we were at the base of camp I. then right up there, today I was carrying my and Samina things, samina was carrying her cloths and water up to 12kg! first day I had nearly 25kg load and today nearly 22kg !

Here for everything you take extra need extra money,, even for one kilo you pay extra money up to 200USD! Its crazy.. Nothing is included in the package ..Likewise I was a day behind and only a mull cost us nearly 900USD and here for every kilo you pay! 1 to 10kg has a price and 11 to 20kg has different price and the most strange thing you have to pay by credit card..

The final approach was tiring for samina as her pack was heavy then normal, we rest and drunk water and ate our lunches then she was fine, but tired. We pitched our tent, we were told at high camps we will also set up our tens, since its very windy mountain in case we need some one to put up our tents would cost us 30 USD each time our tent is pitched. Its really nonsense.. we however put up our tens and the other team members came for help, we set up our tent first then set up Prem and Chris tent, then Wynn and Michael tent. We the team members helped each other.

In the evening Samina was not feeling well, she was tired and felt very low .. it was because she didn’t eat anything for lunch nor for dinner. Martin the guide was called with BP checking machine..Prem came with ORS and found everything is just fine, she was tired.. she ate apple and drunk lots of water/ORS,then she was fine.

 Our packed food after making it warm was served. I ate it but Samina didn’t like it. I forced her to drink but she refused to eat. Night was windy and cold. We could sleep after Prem gave some packed Indian food for Samina. That was very helpful. Here food is very different than our part of the world and Samina is very sensitive to food. I am ok except Haram food!!

Day11

Camp I to Camp II. 5000m

Today I decided to use porter for Samina stuffs/luggage to camp II, the porters arrived and we were already ready, the weather was nice most of the people were leaving for Camp I, we also continue the March, Samina was feeling great, she had only her water today and light pack. The climb was zigzag on the Southeast face of Aconcagua. It was big open trail but yesterday Snow fall made the path pretty deep and demanding, most of the people didn’t climb on the normal route, made zigzag and new track. It was wonderful weather and nice line of people climbing on the face.

The photographs and the video shot on this face was amazing and then the col and the entire view of the valley as we were climbing higher was extremely wonderful!

We climbed through the col and turned to the right to a point before reaching camp III,we ate our packed lunch ,the view of southern side of Aconcagua was amazing, not high mountain but so much beautiful ,little snow capped mountains and incredible view of the Andes range on the far right the great view of Chilean range. Super amazing, Samina was doing extremely fine. After nice lunch, we continued for Camp II, in an hour we were at Camp II, the view just amazing, and we were usual welcome and greeted by guides, the camp is dry  but beautiful.

We immediately pitched our tents and then hot water. The entire team were doing fine, we missed Lawrence for not coming up! We then rest the entire evening and Dinner break. Prem had another pack of Indian packed food that Samina ate for dinner, its sad that we don’t have such packed for high altitude or trekking purpose, this industry should be encouraged and some food producing industries should make such food too.

Night was nice and the guide told us tomorrow is rest day at Camp II, in the evening the view was worth watching, Chris and Myself went on the edge and looked at the wonderful view of the Andes as the snow was going down. There were few other people came to join us and some Swiss friends met, I also took their shots and photo for the project.. We talked and talked… the mountain up to here is very clean, no trash, no human waste. They have set up a tent on each camp as toilet with newspaper and hand syntaizer. So your poo goes back ot base camp in a Big plastic bag J the sad thing only the newspaper has some people name or photo is absolutely disgusting and ruined!!!!!

The night meal was served with hot water; it was good packed Rise and Chicken. Was delicious at this altitude! Night time  again the satellite phone didn’t work and worries mounted since no contact back home!  Tomorrow is rest and not early wake up!!

Day 12

Camp II  5500m

Late in the morning we woke up, prepared our breakfast the view of the small mountains is just incredible! Normally in the mountains we hardly brush our teeth, most of the time rely on mouth washer, liquid and its useful unless its not frozen ! it was ok the liquid was not frozen till now since we put it inside sleeping bag. Two things work well, mouthwash and baby wiper both we keep inside the sleeping pocket, keep them warm and useful if not kept warm all frozen!

Breakfast Serrel/ corn flex and black tea, some chocolate then called for meeting in the morning, the guides said, we would climb up to 6000m and climb back to Camp II as acclimatization, the section we were going to climb is absolute dry and as usual small patch of snow. In the meeting were told to take our crampons.

Two liters of water and crampons some chocolates/bars, sweets. Then we were again in line following the guide, absolutely crazy.. any we kept going till the snow patch, the guide ordered to put the crampons, seriously its NOT glacier, NOR steep section nor sleepery still I couldn’t understand why we would put the crampons . but we did put up the crampons . in two hours we were at camp II of polish glacier. Normally this route is considered normal polish glacier traverse and the original is straight above the col to the shoulder, and for normal route you hike to the right and the gentle gain to camp II. It was beautiful view, weather was nice and weather was completely blue! We enjoyed the view and so the hike , when we retunred to camp it was 2pm I guess ,and had our lunch, some sleep and then meeting time, the guides told us about next day plan and told about the conditions tomorrow, hard day and difficult and main day ,etc… 

When the sun sat, me samina and Chris went for some photos with our banners/flags, it was nice photo time, I also took some stunning photos from the upper cliff near the camp. The view stunning and beautiful!

After Dinner we talked, Samina was absolutely doing fine and no issue now, no headache no other problem, the rest turned good but big clouds started to appear and at one point I was not happy why we had this rest day at Camp II, but then believed in the divine force and prayed, everything will go alright!

We had nice sleep the other day and went to bed early even the sun was still up, its interesting that the evening appears very late and the morning so early J we have different time zones but still great to go to bed when the sun is up”) enough or more than enough time for sleep J

Day 13

Camp II –Camp III 5989m

The morning we finished our breakfast and it was already pretty late , since we were waiting for the porters to come from base camp to carrythings to CampIII ,the weather was very windy and clouds were high up and at one point looked if it will start snowing. We had put down the tents and all ready for porters ,the porters arrived and we continued for Camp III , today we also had half porter . mean 10kg for the porter ,the rest I was carrying , the track pretty easy and nice, but the wind was horrible , at second rest place it was hard blowing wind. It at some points  pushed us back and retarder the paceJ

In second rest we had some food and water the wind decreased but not much.. we continued with our hoods on and gloves ,some of our members  were wearing Mittens the cold was at this level.  Less photos today but some video of the wind  and climb.

Another two hours and we were at camp III; very open wide flat place with few already pitched tents from other groups. The view surreal and amazing. The summit is close but the long approach is not! all of us very excited and  happy to go to the summit… the evening was very exciting  but the same time worries mounted too. The weather very windy and clouds building up very bad weather in the evening….

Reaching camp III and were first to put the tent, Samina and me put the tent, Rudy and Hans came for help, its very difficult to erect the tent in fiercely wind,, we put up the tent and normally what we do if its too wind and keeps the tent moving, I put my heavy pack inside and insert the poles with  outer  clipped to the sections that hold both outer and inner together .

I help Hans and Rudy then Prem and Chris pitching their tents. The lunch time was already there but some had already eaten their packed lunch, I and Samina ate our packed lunch at Camp III, it was nice Sandwich that Samina liked today..

The clouds start building in the evening and wind again kicking off, the guide had the meeting and told all about tomorrow summit assault.. It was again disturbing speeches and not moral boosting.. any way we ate our Dinner and I couldn’t sleep ,went on the edge to enjoy the view of the mountains while the sun was still up late in the evening. Chris was talking some photos and we talked and had fun… I did try some time laps but worried for the batteries since I had one battery left and no charger. The clouds building and flying out swiftly just incredible, Hiding the summit pyramid and unveiling it is magical! :)

Day 14

13-12-2013

Camp III-Summit

Since the guide said, one should be professional and wouldn’t be good to grab some one out from the tent, 4:30am was fetching hot water and departure for the summit at 6am, so need to sleep early. My time through out this expedition was acting like crazy. Every day at 11pm the needle stops moving. so this was one worries…

Samina and talked late night and then tried to sleep but from time to time we woke , then middle of the night we heard people talking and thought time is up, when I looked through the door no light. And realized people from other group were gearing up and leaving for the summit. It was 1am or 2am. This talk continues for two hours and then finally our group start preparing, I went to grab hot water for breakfast first. Made corn flex ,…. I didn’t like much of today cornflex ,samina did  eat some … we had only one black tea bag left ,I gave it to samina and made green tea for me. We ate some of our chocolates/ energy bars we bought in Mendoza.

Filled our bottles packed what we need for the summit and all set to leave. Some of the fellows were late ,the call came in and we gathered for the final speech J the guide talked  and remind what we need and what to do… bla bla bla  and we left!

The pace was normal but good. The day light got stronger each step we took, in two hours and half we were below the “BAD TRAVESE” the sun approached the hills at distance we could see beautiful pyramid and the guide pointed toward the  tall black pyramid /shadow at the far distance in the Chilean mountain range ,that is Mt.Aconcagua J it was beautiful view … we kept on and the Sun chased the pyramid down illuminating  the shade…

During our climb we encountered two independent climbers from Scandinavia and another team was climbing behind us. The final steep section with little zigzag we made it to the top , the snow patch the guide avoid and we climbed on the edge with a sheer drop. Later one of the fellow climber told me, what was reason we didn’t climb the main route and followed the edge J

Right there on the shoulder before the bad traverse/mild snow covered track. It was stunning view across the Andes and far distance the Chilean mountains; we couldn’t spot any valley but the mountains!

Some rest some water and some food. Samina was little tired and it was getting very hot. We put off some of our layers .  the view was stunning we made some photos and the order came in to put up the crampons… strange ,seriously starnge, the traverse was dry with little snow .. but the guide said for this we told you to bring your crampons. I wondered how possible without fixed rope we using crampons on scree and rocks,,, the surprise was there and there was no other choice except to accept guide orderJ

We put the crampons and start walking through rocks ,I was behind the guide and Samina behind me.. we kept the pace and in two hours we were at the rest point. Then another half hour to lunch place. Two blue drums have anchored , in the travser two places had big snow patchs, though not difficult but a minor bumb or toss could kill the person down the face to Plaza Mullas..the drop is that long and deep. Some how we were close to lunch place but the group were behind, Samina and one of the guide were close but the guide want us to wait, I was angry and said we can’t wait, we can wait at the safe place right below the rocks … he then got the yes order from the senior guide. We rest and the other members arrived one by one. We had almost half hour rest here. The other group also catches up with us. We had the lunch rest and then again the speech, earlier one of our member turned back due to low energy, Michael from SA, he and his friend Wynne attempted the peak two years back and this was second attempt. Michael turned back after Lawerence. The guide said it’s the final point ,those who feel low and feeling altitude should go back. Otherwise up there would be diffiuclt to turn back, it will make all group go down. Since one guide turned back with Michael…

We all said all right and we ready for the summit March. It was 12pm. The weather all sudden hell.. Clouds cover the entire mountain. Earlier the evening the guide said tomorrow is the best weather window and it was absolutely right until 12pm. The wind kicked up and clouds, snow started… we had another 300m to climb, the guide said to put the crampons and helmets … it was absolutely Crazy for me to have crampons, the track full of boulders and lose rocks and with crampons made it hell. Samina told me “Bhai”  she is feeling tired … and then I realized its crazy to put the crampons… I then told the guide that we are not climbing with Crampons; I took off her Crampons and mine too. And told them we are responsible if anything happens, the climb the final 200m is mixed rocks and snow but not ice… other climbed with Crampons, it was very dangerous to climb with crampons at this altitude with no fixed ropes or safety, one bounce or toss would kill you, since once you toss and no safety you lose control and crash to rocks or slide down the face can be disaster!!!

We kept on climbing without crampons, I placed the both crampons in my pack, Samina was going strong now, some times its also psychological impact if you are not ready to use something which is not needed and forcibly make you use. She was relax and going with good pace. The wind was blowing and the snow fall continued, it was less than 200m and the weather turned bad and worse.. we continued, every one was doing perfect…. All happy getting closer each step.

We had breaks and climbed, the snow condition was fine on the traverse toward the summit, two guys were climbing above us and they were VERY slow!

We had rest at two points to get all together, we had two guides with us at this altitude, the entire mountain was covered and we had snow on our packs. We were praying and told Samina to offer Tasbih  and worked well, I wanted to divert her concentrations.  Then final rest before the final steps … samina was extremely happy and excited Being first women to summit the Heights peak of South America after Mountain Everest in may!

I was behind the guide and samina behind me!!! We were 5m short from the summit and the guide told me please lead to the summit, it was Amazing … our first project of Adventure diplomacy, connecting people through mountains coming to success, Samina being the First on top of South America… empowering women and our efforts of Gender Equality, we were offering Tasbhi in our heart and taking final Steps,

I continued and reached the summit, WAW Alhamdullilah! By Grace of Almighty and Divine power we reached the summit, I took my camera out and filmed Samina Coming to the summit.. we cheered we thanked Almighty for all the Divine force for the help and enrgy.Samina and I made it to the top. Then other friends came to the Summit, We hugged and prayed and hold the Cross that has been placed on top of Mt.Aconcagua. Samina summit 6961m peaks. it took 9hours to reach the summit, incredible feeling and speechless. Tired and exhausted but full of joy!!! We also Remembered our parents, our family and our Kiwi Darlings those who always trust and believe in my work and us and sponsor us, we also remembered and prayed for respected Aziz Sharif who extended his support for our  Seven summits Mt.Aconcagua,Mt.Vinson and Mt.Elbrus and Ms Diana who announced for our Mt. Mickey Expedition right after our Everest Expedition. We also didn’t forget the BRAND “KAILAS” those trust us and sponsor our cloths for the seven summits,We also remembered and thanked Mr.Aziz bolani and entire Serena hotel those who made our Adventure diplomacy so well organized and the five Embassies, those encouraged our Adventure diplomacy expedition to 7Summits in 7continents. We also remember all those who prayed for us and give moral support and entire Pakistan!

I & Samina From Pakistan, Hans from Germany, Rudy from Switzerland, Prem from India, Chris from Estonia, two guides reached the summit .

The two guy were on the summit we shake hands and hugs, congratulations and lots of joy!! We took photos with our flags and banners and then descent , the guide said NO down climb without crampons, I had no option just to obey, the wind and snow continued, I put Samina crampons as she was very tired to put it, then put mine and climbed down still snowing… the other group caught us half way from the summit ridge, when we reached the summit  I found Wynne another South African friend also turned back due to high altitude.

The climb down was hell with crampons but we climbed down at points we wait for our fellow climbers, I and Samina always behind the guide J and pushed him to take one extra step… the snow was getting heavy and amount of snow on the trail was getting higher..

Reaching the lower shoulder, I was so hot and felt very bad, felt liking throwing up ,due to eating lots of nuts and tang … I was so hot in my head… when we rest I threw up it was not much but very bitter J I was relaxed after throwing up,it was very little though…

Then reached making zigzag to the lunch place, Hans slept at one point but good control, rest at the lunch place, some had left their extra things there… we drunk water ad then continue the traverse the wind was getting very strong and visibility became Zero.. The guide was ahead and me and Samina and Hans… Rudy and Martin were behind. We continued guessing the path with little mark from the guys who descended before us.

Finally we managed the bad traverse to the shoulder and down to broken shelter, where we put off our crampons and felt extremely relaxed J

From there I raced down to camp III, Samina, the guide and Hans were behind!

When reached Camp III, Peter, Ursula and other members were there , they were excited and congratulated, we hugged and exchanged  hello hi ,they were very happy for us and then asked how things go, so all well and good luck for them J

Had some hot water then Samina arrived.. we were very tired and wanted to rest and sleep ,since didn’t sleep last night … we decided not to eat anything J

But mid night it was crazy night , we felt seriously hungry but didn’t feel eating Chocolate or biscuit, wanted something spicy ,Pakistani food…we talked and kept talking about food back home J then I fell asleep ..Samina sooo.. Tomorrow we were supposed to descend to Plaza mullas !  Samina had bad headache but was fine later in the night and fell too asleep!

The climb took 9hours to reach the summit in harsh weather the final 300m and down to Camp III, the round climb took 11 and half hours!including a two and half hours descent ,out of 9 members 6made it to the summit ,though Lawrence had abondned without attempting the peak after Camp I., the good thing his contributed thermos reached the summit with us for him J thank you Lawerence for your generosity ,giving us the Thermose!

What we achieved out of this  expedition of Adventure diplomacy is that, we met hundreds of people from all over the world ,filmed and photo for the project,First women from Pakistan  to summit Mt.Aconcagua 6961m,first Pakistani siblings to scale the Peak from Pakistan, Our message of Adventure diplomacy and women Em[powerment project was success, we could deliver the global Message of Women Empowerment,and message to fellow Pakistani male that if i can support and encourage my Sister they can do ,and for the youth of Pakistan that being from the village and we can do good for Our country and show positive and brave face of pakistan they can   do good within their filed of work .. i love being in My white shirt saying "I Love pakistan" at every airport with my passport being proud being doing good!!!! 
love Pakistan :)

Day 15.

Camp III- Plaza Mullas/ Base camp

In the morning I woke up early went to grab water and took black tea from Peter group .prepared breakfast  and then packed everything, Samina was ready to carry everything  ! we packed filled our bags and put down the tent, at 11 we were supposed to climb down .. we all packed our things and left for Plaza mullas.as usually speech by the senior guide.

We were pretty fast and good in pace after the success. We climbed down to Plaza mullas together, though long descent, on the way down we crossed several people climbing from other side, but again the Park Rangers and rescuer were even at Camp II on the other side, that I felt is Very nice!

Then we arrived base of other side. It was nice feeling waw with success we are safe back to Plaza Mullas other base camp of the peak. The guide final Congratulations, the staff on the other side came and welcome us and then served Coca-Cola and cold drinks and fruit, then lunch… hot water, they told us we can shower BUT for Extra Dollars J when we inquired how much??? The answer was 15$USD) then I went to break the news, it was already a week no news out of us to family, sponsors and followers… I break the news and was happy to get update from our parents…  the Internet costs 20$ USD J

Our stuffs arrived late again to put the tents and fix our gears those we left behind with outfitter and brought to this side of the mountain. At dinner table lots of Pizza with funny guy served us … we don’t eat pork/Haram food… and no Alcohols, the guide came with few bottles of Alcohols to celebrate but we loved to enjoy our cold drinks !

At the end of Celebration the guide Said, the Mulls are not  available and the helicopter will airlift our bags ,so we need to be ready at 5am and the bags will be lifted around 6am. So we have to put down our tents as well by the said time, it was crazy,since last night didn’t sleep and today again the issue  to get the bags packed early!

In the evening the guide came and wanted me to pay for the Porter, he said we don’t’ take cash just Credit card. I said, I don’t’ have credit card but have debit card and they made me pay through debit card, they charged me again 518$USD for the porters,who carried 10kg from Camp I to Camp III.. this is huge expensive ,after extra 900USD this was another charge! But I signed what ever they want me to do… I did.

We agreed and went to bed….

Day 16

Plaza Mullas to Mendoza!

In the morning in headlamp we put down our gears and fixed our bags, then deposited them for airlift outside the dining tent. Our day packs were not light either and not low energy, today was the long day , the breakfast was not too heavy and the lunch packs were giving, morning was pretty cold and the helicopter didn’t fly until 7am, we then demanded to leave without waiting for helicopter.. Others agreed and we left at 7am for Mendoza

Walking down the trail was fun, different landscape though not beautiful the way up from park Entrance from Plaza Argentina, half way we could hear the chopper making its way to the base camp. The helicopter did few trips and we believed our gears airlifted to the park entrance from Plaza Mullas side.

The hike was not difficult except one litter uphill and then open valley, very beautiful and colorful, the Volcano formed amazing mountains. Halfway we stopped for Lunch and then again raced to the end of the park. Entirely enjoyed the trek down the Park of Parque Aconcagua provincial. There was a bridge and then we were at the park exit point. Little walk  and the Lake, saw people coming to the park from other side, it was Sunday and lots of people there with their families, we reached at the main road, it was around more than 7hours hike ,fastest hike L)  and legs were tired!

The car was there and we got in to the car and no more walk on foot. The car drove us to outfitter camp on the other side to collect our bags ,the bags helicopter lifted from base camp. Put the bags in the car and drove all the way to Mendoza. The valley so pretty and beautiful ,huge lorries and buses running the road and amazing, all men made, so well done the roads and beautiful delvoped vallesy… so beautiful. Then I thought how shame our people /politicians travel aroudnt eh world but don’t’ learn how those people developed their countries. Its truly pitty… that people developed their countries so beautiful ,even in the far flung areas but hving  the natural beauty our politicians don’t develop our country… the drive was nice to Mendoza, most of our friends were asleep ,,, then we were in Mendoza ,, hot shower and hotel….

Day 17

Mendoza rest day.

Normally in Pakistan, Nepal the outfitter gives farewell dinner/lunch but here is different, we invited our guides for Lunch and we were not giving any farewell dinner or lunch,,, shame, no hospitality here just money and business.. the lunch with guides was nice, we all gathered and ate at a nice restaurant, we tipped the guides, some of our fellows point out things were not right but beside 100mistakes I didn’t speak. We tipped them and said goodbye.

The senior guide came and told me that I have to make cash payment for the porter ,since there is some problem with Debit card. I told them that I didn’t say I will pay through Debit card ,you people made me pay using debit card. If you want I can go to the office but I am running short of cash now.. I don’t’ have extra cash..

We went to the hotel and I washed all my dirty cloths J

Prem and Chris left for Buenos airs today and we were six behind. We stayed one extra night.

Day 18.

Mendoza- Buenos Aires

In the morning after purchasing Bus ticket for Buenos airs, I went to the office but the lady was not there. She talked on the phone and I told her I don’t have credit card nor extra cash, just do what your team wanted me to do in Base camp.. I will write my bank to pay via Debit card, I was stressed and truly sicken me,, this company I would NEVER ever recommend to some one, Aymara Expeditions & Adventure, one of the crap service.

mid day we had our lunch and then went to the bus Station ,got on the bus and drove to Buenos Aires.

I loved Mendoza its nicely developed city so nice, the people are so amazing, no one speaks English. Rarely you would find some one speaking English. People are more fat and unhealthy L

The bus we booked our tickets just incredible, I never enjoyed the ride of even an airplane in first class. So nice relaxing seats and the seats turn in to complete bed, well served food and TV, movies and music. The bus is double story and almost 20people sitting capacity. All very relax and comfortable.  I truly admire how these people developed their country.  In the bus we have also Internet, Wi-fi and toilet, just amazing. Its 14hours drive from Mendoza to Buenos airs.

It is not like if we traveling this much long. If we travel from Hunza to Islamabad is horrible and these buses and road is just incredible you wouldn’t feel a minor bump or jolt through the your journey, well developed roads..

Then sleep time J

Day 18

Its morning and we are in Buenos Aires one of the Beautiful city in the world, we came to a hostel and its interesting to meet new faces, its way too different than hotels, its hot in the rooms, small beds  ,small washrooms ,we are saving since our trip is prolonged and extra costs made it difficult to stay at hotel  and everything  is Very expensive,

We staying at El Sol hostel and lots of back packers are here and its fun ,when we cook here J

More to come until our Antarctica Expedition to climb Mt.Vinson in January .