by Mirza Ali

Shimshal and Mountaineering (Land Of peerless Climbers)

Shimshal is one of the most famed mountain valleys in the north-eastern of Hunza region. situated at 3000m above sea level. Surrounded by snow covered peaks, fenced by glaciers such as Khurdapin, verjarab, Yazghal Malangoti and Braldo glacier. Interlinked by various passes such as Braldo, Khurdapin, and chafchingul. Mustagh, Maidour, Sherlik, Qarun, Ghdmez, Shipodeen Shimshal Pass and many more. a large number of alpine pastures,Yazghal,Loupgar, Gojrave,Maidour,Khurdapin,Momhil the most famous Shimshal Pamir.the peaks standing up to 7885m Dastagir Sar,the 9th highest in Pakistan, and many more above 7000m and the lowest trek peak Quz Sar 5900m.shimshalis are considered one of the gallant and brave people for mountaineering in the world, being the inhabitants of mountain, mountaineering is part of their natural environment, mountaineering they have inherited from their predecessors, early history portrays that the inhabitants used to climb mountain for hunting , for fire woods And wood for construction houses, to acquire these life basic needs which were associated to mountains, gradually these activities broaden its shape in to modern climbing, in history it is clear that Shimshal never used technical instruments for climbing, they used always local product made apparatuses for climbing,” from rope to other essential mountaineering gears” modern mountaineering amalgamated in Shimshal history in the year 1890.when Young Husband an American official visit Shimshal through china, later colonel Schaumburg 1936 “ discovered Khurdapin pass and Braldo pass” taking Shimshal assistance and Shepton 1938 same British Army personnel trekked through Shimshal while drawing map both had used Shimshal as porter and route guide during their visit, since then modern equipment by and by came in to use. And today Shimshalis are well equipped well aware of modern mountaineering and have their supremacy in the field of mountaineering, Pakistan top most climbers hails from this remote valley. Sub(r) Yousuf khan and Hav.(r) Mohd Ullah are the first Pakistani technical climbers.(Mr.Mohd Ullah is the only and first Pakistani who reached to the top of Nanga Parbat twice) both of them were awarded Tamghai Basalt for there great achievement in the field of mountaineering. this in sigma is a long lasting and first achievement in the northern area Gojal. Mr. Rajab shah then became the first Pakistani to summit all five 8000m peak in Pakistan and Govt. of Pakistan honored him as “ Crown of Karakorum and also conferred him presidential award of pride of performance. Mr. Mehruban shah has also awarded the pride of performance in the field of Mountaineering.Mr. Mirza Ali is the first youngest climber for reaching to the top of Minglik Sar, 6050m peak in the age of 16. With king school and college expedition in 1998, Mr. Hasil shah and astounding young climber and great mountaineer organized first private Pakistani expedition to a 6335 m peak engaging all top climbers of Shimshal. Mr.Ali Mussa a strenuous and renowned mountaineer and skier organize a ski expedition first time in history as private managed ski expedition to Shimshal Pamir pass in 2001.Mr. Qudrat Ali a valiant and young climber, who has summit four out of five 8000m peaks in Pakistan and one 8000m peak in Nepal. On the occasion of YEAR OF MOUNTAINNERING, in 2006 for the first time in Pakistan history launched first Pakistani expedition with his friend Mr.Shaheen Baig “K2 Summitor” to K2.the same year first Pakistani “belongs to Shimshal” girl along her two brothers, Farzana Faisal reached to the summit of 6050m peak, and became first women climber of Pakistan, shimshalis are real brave climbers, in 60years history of Pakistan out of 6 K2 summiteers 3 are shimshalis

Mr.Qurban Muhaamad the only rescue specialist in paksitan is the dweller of that fabled mountain village "shimshal". his twice suucessful rescue operation to Naga parbat and GII is examplery.
During the dramatic accident at K2 this year two young, agile climbers from shimshal (Mr Mehruban Karim and Jehan baing) lost their lives. While surmounting massive K2. It is more lauded at international level because of the service they paid during the ascent and particularly Jehan baing’s, who dauntless went to rescue a Siberian climber. Who fell off below bottleneck and died, during rescuing him approximately at an elevation of more 8000m and lost his life.
The amazing climbing record holder of the history of Pakistan is Mr.Darbar Karim, paralyzed of Left side of body made his reach to the summit of Minglik Sar in the Age of 25 on 28th of June 2008.this has been an outstanding record in the history of Pakistan by this young disabled men.Gradually a large number of shimshalis have made incredible reputation in mountaineering history, today every foreign expedition without Shimshali (Climbers) high altitude porters, impossible to make their ascent successful. Shimshalis are genuine climbers and their presence in all category and class of expeditions realistic and success promising, till to date more the 26 shimshalis have successfully made their reach to the summit of various 8000m peaks in Pakistan and Nepal. The average summiteers of all 8000m in Pakistan are 1 % four 8000m 5 % and three 8000m 29 % two 8000m 65% and less then 8000m is many. The only resistance of Shimshali climbers to reveal their guts is lack of education, 98% of Shimshali climbers are illiterate, therefore they couldn’t make any platform to make this industry poplar and progressive in Pakistan, Government has never been keen to develop this industry or make any strategy in practical, to attract foreign climber, to make this industry a well progressive and reliable source of foreign exchange and provide opportunity for every willing climber domestically and foreign.
Shimshal nature trust (SNT) and other local tour operators have now developed the idea for a plate form from where immediate response will be given to the fabled mountaineers and will utilize their quality experience for future change ,we at Karakoram Expedition & Tours (a fresh tour operator) have strong policies to implement practical to boast adventurism and tourism in the country and give opportunity to every one (from domestic to foreign) to find our unmatched service and experience with highly veteran Climbers .those are part of our team and will assist every one on there adventure expedition and we challenge the like climbers else where in the world.
Mirza Ali

www.ketpakistan.com

My first Ascent of Mingligh sar 6050m

the young dude on the summit :)

i just thought is more like  a sofa on the summit :) 

unbelievable feeling!

a Crazy stunt, five years later summit the same peak with this condition :)

Sonia peak 6400m,summit with Dutch friends 2005

Sonia 6400m peak summit 2005

left to right,Friso,Arjen,Marcel,Mirza adnMarleen,(Photo Hasil)

By Mirza Ali

Intense Intention!


Intentions are waved together with instinct, Intellectual and emotional approach, the approach is the like and non like events. The liking of the event and desire of the achievement is the leveled bottom that hips and pushes up to the loftiness where intention steer the actionist. That intention is persistent and extremely intense efforts. No force can limit the intensity of intention, no bearers no other bottle-neck resists to go on with the intention. Craving for the settled goal is the ultimate destination.

The link here is the Focal Point, which enables the actionist to reach to the point s/he has been swaying over wavering .the point Focused and Focal point is absolute ambition of Star Performers. One who focuses 100% and has complete awareness about oneself is the Star performer, highest achiever, and then descends accordingly.

A thorough review of facts have cumulated in organized way by various eminent scholars, scientis, educationist, philosophers and highly experienced of the fields, more the findings of them, have the only outcomes that is extensive Intention, that roots with early life that starts from mother lap. This intention has associations with the desired achievements from very Beginning, which shows the desire of a thing to get in that tinny life, that quest shows the direction of the infant. Though change is always experienced. The true force that pushes toward a positive way is the top indicator of star performer. That all come in a point, how to availed the opportunity not to forgo, or lose.

This quest for learning and achievement is the driving force to adhere the magnanimous resources in to well channeled, where depth longitude existed.
The pioneers of various facts and concepts that have brought many fold changes in short span in human society are those have had INTENSE INTENTION to gear out the possibilities by undaunted efforts. The magnitude relied with the focused and top settled goal. Practicality in the achievement

In this arena where competitors are on the verge, getting down of minor mistake has brought immense change and curiosity in the minds. This has put most of the people to endeours and straightens the dimension and obvious the focal point is the gist of the achievement at every level and the degree has no more compatibility except the focused mind aware behaviors a little distraction or deviation from the point then nothing more dismal, repudiated and disdained forever.

By Mirza Ali

Kohistan Mountain Area Research work (Pakistan)
A blue print for necessary amendment for practical implementations

Briefing
This work has been framed in the vision of my previous audit trip of a school project, funded by an Austrian NGO to Besham, knowing the disgracing facts; I came up with an idea to carry out a research work, to study the basic needs and deeds for the survival of these remote mountain areas. Where potential and resources are in abundance there has to be proper utilization in a well organized way with qualified manpower for a long-term development.
A research work has been designed to be undertaken in the Kohistan mountain area to identify the fundamental cause of the area’s failure in education, economy and science, the project’s efficiency post and pre earth quake, the people’s attitude and approach thinking about the West, secular education and science, human society and the need for new projects, emphasizing the core concept of these high mountain zone people with very few facilities but abundant natural resources to their disposal, finding ways to implement new technologies in transforming the minds and setting them for new dimensions, for the betterment of society and daily life in these remote regions and proper utilization of the rich natural resources. Educating new generations and making them aware of global change and a new scientific era. Giving them proper and timely guidance and instruction toward their advancement in the current scenario. Establishing model schools to remove the differences.
The research work could be done in a sequence, sequencing facts as from.

1) Introduction to research
2) Necessity of Research
3) Scope of Research
4) Commencement of Research
5) Introduction to the area
6) Introduction to dwellers
7) Historical touch
8) Geographical importance
9) Natural resources
10) Source of income
11) Standard of living and daily life
12) World and their view of it
13) Education and its importance
14) Mental approach
15) Interpretation of core area
16) Facts and failure
17) Political conditions
18) Economic conditions
19) Educational conditions
20) Economic backwardness
21) Educational backwardness
22) Core reasons of backwardness
23) Islam and Islamism
24) Role of Islam
25) Role of Muwlanas
26) Madrassa education
27)Importance of Madrassa education
28)Madrassa education system
29) Resistance against secular education
30) Feelings about Madrassa education
31) Difference between the education systems (Madrassa and secular)
32) Concept of Islamic and non Islamic education
33) Causes of resistance
34) Importance of women in the society
35) Community empowerment and women involvement
36) Islamic way of life and its interpretations
37) Acceptance of modern life in the area
38) Fanatics
39) Possible ways out
40) Advancement by educating the masses
41) Introduction of new system by mutual acceptance
42) Utilizing manpower
43) Creating working environment
44) Providing , facilitating ,stimulating education and jobs
45) Co-educational system, bridging the gap and differences
46) Bringing equality and harmony
47) Causes of hatred
48) Erasing hatred of other creeds, casts ,religions and nationals
49) Possible Working Environment
50) Ways of job creation
51) Utilization of natural resources
52) Empowerment of women
53) Introduction of new educational system
54) Supervision and assistance for the undertaken projects(if taken in the light of this work)
55) Possibilities lie with assistance by the Government’s local NGOs, foreign NGOs and other funding agencies.
The data base will be entirely on first-hand collected data’s and interviews. From original inhabitants and necessary from non native workers, foreigners, supervising and administrating projects in the vicinity.
Genuine and Plausible Recommendations will be made in final, which will be in the light of final assessment of the research work and exact findings during the work.
This research work could be the first ever research work in these so called mountain area’s, where 100% projection is expected through this work. I have a sincere appeal for the assistance in this very first research work for success and change in a society.

the viewers of my blog, if kindly give there kind suggestions and help for this research work that i could carry out this research in the most remot area of kohistan area of Paksitan

few pics have added here of Besham school project and besham

Blue print by
Mirza Ali

By Mirza Ali

Time to Wake Up
I have strong belief and faith in God’s Mercy and kindness, in every hard situation he pulled me out, rescued me in every difficulty, I have no words to express here, for all these clemency and graciousness! Thank you God, for being there with me, whenever I succumb to any, which could cause debarred and harder could be destruction.

Yes and my parents! Always there to support me, provided what ever, I demanded, even staying empty belly long days as well nights and many from clothing to other necessities, my mother gave me birth….. Fed me, protected me always cuddled, sheltered and kept me aloof from all that miseries that would have hampered my that tiny life, my father supplied from his tight income cloths, shoe food many more…then school……College….. University Of course other dear supporters, when ever, where ever I came across, my comrades and any who had been, has been there to make me worthy in the eyes of the world. . Now expecting me???? (Ponder).

Reviewing all above stated points, For this reason, Today, 30th of April 2008, I bought a new pen, a General and my books, exactly my Text non-Text books, grabbing pen holding Book and hoping for a good move in life, I know life is not full of roses, hot and cold is there, but desperation is sin (I am once told), losing hope and losing heart is, the only way to stoppage.

Saying all these meant, I have a positive posture to avail, what ever is, within my range and posses all that what is viable, and reveal what I have in, dimension and setting my Goal accordingly. Because the first phrase I learnt today is “Impossible is found in the dictionary of Fools”

For achieving, my high settled goal, what I need to do? What is the prime route that leads to realization of my life objectives? And, do I posses some life objectives that I cherish passionately? How deep do they roots with my existence and how profound it affects my success and failure? What can make me vivid and star performer? What makes me flushing out, gruff stuffs, that only basks nothing then reality, how to exaggerate and how to fix and figure out the possibilities and sensing the top priorities of the time and age and where my standing is?

What I ought to do to be emotionally convinced and to be well “FOCUSED”. Nothing can make me, star performer! Unless and until I am well plus fully focused, for achieving what so ever goal, lies with strong focus attitude, how strong I can focus, what is the focal point, and need to know what focus is and why focused? And how long I need to be very focused, what will be the hurdles, how to make them away and how to eliminate them to get to the marked line, the magnitude of my work and more its potential, how that associates with factual aspect of my focused target,

Getting these points, obviously, I will make my way sure, and can achieve my aimed goal, within a frame and possible time. That will make my action acute, realistic and pragmatic one. The entire career “academic non-academic” is focused, who is, how focused concerned to his/her career? This makes one understand of the bypass and optima of ones capability, and making his/her appearance credible, even in incredible situations.

The arena has now; challenging, challenging environment has left people in cry! Most of the new generation is bewilder including me, how to make them run with time and system, most advanced and less developed people have reached to a crush point, where struggling forces have come to win, win position, they are not losing even a single moment to make opponent stronger, this has brought immense pleasure as well ruin to the world! Advancement in science has been dear and making things dearer, this correlation has made both way hard!

But I am still optimist, sensing plus knowing the chief dimension of my success being FOCUSED, Still there is way out, making ones (min) choice in a realistic and rational way, that can bring bliss, easiness.feeling the BURDEN ZERO Is the only possibility. I am doing from now because my parents, my siblings, family and wider my nation has enormous expectations out of me, to do well in the society for good. My look out and observation despite thousand reservation, do once your self, and sense what I have stated is right or not. Go and be well FOCUSED from today. Hope there is constructive result as well Reward waiting for all!!!


The above mentioned all in short elaborated as down.
It is a half way attempt to Motivate, engineer and stimulate the dear friends & sisters of every sphere to assure their full concentration plus involvement in their respective field of studies. It is not to any individual person or group, it wraps whole nation. Of whom expectations are in queue as well high.
Being felt the ordinary performance of students (like me), even having “HIGH RATE SCHOOLING” in their early academic life (except few).this uncertain decline in professional career is unbelievable and disgruntlement.
The core to be
1> lack of professional approach
2> less career counseling & guideline
3> inconsistency and heedlessness
4> dissuading by friends (bad friend circle)
5> lack of motivation events
6> deviating from FOCAL POINT

The stated points I feel effects the efficiency of high graders in professional career, most of them do not met the expected goal and those who have not even strong academic background suffer a lot. But struggles to reach his/her desired and promising goal, to give a possible message of change
I did an approach, to link “remind” our faith, belief and * parents as well nation expectations. *Then our activities in this era, sensing the demand, snags and also achievable targets,* I tried to make us (youth) understand and fixing our goal, (could be achieved) by being FOCUSED. * In the advanced and scientific society and occurring of events (competition). And life standards, relishing of benefits as well inverse.
I feel this attempt will make my dears understand of the very facts of life and get in to work from now to get their due places in the society for better and exquisitely life.