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Thursday, September 25, 2008

by Mirza Ali

Shimshal and Mountaineering (Land Of peerless Climbers)

Shimshal is one of the most famed mountain valleys in the north-eastern of Hunza region. situated at 3000m above sea level. Surrounded by snow covered peaks, fenced by glaciers such as Khurdapin, verjarab, Yazghal Malangoti and Braldo glacier. Interlinked by various passes such as Braldo, Khurdapin, and chafchingul. Mustagh, Maidour, Sherlik, Qarun, Ghdmez, Shipodeen Shimshal Pass and many more. a large number of alpine pastures,Yazghal,Loupgar, Gojrave,Maidour,Khurdapin,Momhil the most famous Shimshal Pamir.the peaks standing up to 7885m Dastagir Sar,the 9th highest in Pakistan, and many more above 7000m and the lowest trek peak Quz Sar 5900m.shimshalis are considered one of the gallant and brave people for mountaineering in the world, being the inhabitants of mountain, mountaineering is part of their natural environment, mountaineering they have inherited from their predecessors, early history portrays that the inhabitants used to climb mountain for hunting , for fire woods And wood for construction houses, to acquire these life basic needs which were associated to mountains, gradually these activities broaden its shape in to modern climbing, in history it is clear that Shimshal never used technical instruments for climbing, they used always local product made apparatuses for climbing,” from rope to other essential mountaineering gears” modern mountaineering amalgamated in Shimshal history in the year 1890.when Young Husband an American official visit Shimshal through china, later colonel Schaumburg 1936 “ discovered Khurdapin pass and Braldo pass” taking Shimshal assistance and Shepton 1938 same British Army personnel trekked through Shimshal while drawing map both had used Shimshal as porter and route guide during their visit, since then modern equipment by and by came in to use. And today Shimshalis are well equipped well aware of modern mountaineering and have their supremacy in the field of mountaineering, Pakistan top most climbers hails from this remote valley. Sub(r) Yousuf khan and Hav.(r) Mohd Ullah are the first Pakistani technical climbers.(Mr.Mohd Ullah is the only and first Pakistani who reached to the top of Nanga Parbat twice) both of them were awarded Tamghai Basalt for there great achievement in the field of mountaineering. this in sigma is a long lasting and first achievement in the northern area Gojal. Mr. Rajab shah then became the first Pakistani to summit all five 8000m peak in Pakistan and Govt. of Pakistan honored him as “ Crown of Karakorum and also conferred him presidential award of pride of performance. Mr. Mehruban shah has also awarded the pride of performance in the field of Mountaineering.Mr. Mirza Ali is the first youngest climber for reaching to the top of Minglik Sar, 6050m peak in the age of 16. With king school and college expedition in 1998, Mr. Hasil shah and astounding young climber and great mountaineer organized first private Pakistani expedition to a 6335 m peak engaging all top climbers of Shimshal. Mr.Ali Mussa a strenuous and renowned mountaineer and skier organize a ski expedition first time in history as private managed ski expedition to Shimshal Pamir pass in 2001.Mr. Qudrat Ali a valiant and young climber, who has summit four out of five 8000m peaks in Pakistan and one 8000m peak in Nepal. On the occasion of YEAR OF MOUNTAINNERING, in 2006 for the first time in Pakistan history launched first Pakistani expedition with his friend Mr.Shaheen Baig “K2 Summitor” to K2.the same year first Pakistani “belongs to Shimshal” girl along her two brothers, Farzana Faisal reached to the summit of 6050m peak, and became first women climber of Pakistan, shimshalis are real brave climbers, in 60years history of Pakistan out of 6 K2 summiteers 3 are shimshalis
Mr.Qurban Muhaamad the only rescue specialist in paksitan is the dweller of that fabled mountain village "shimshal". his twice suucessful rescue operation to Naga parbat and GII is examplery.
During the dramatic accident at K2 this year two young, agile climbers from shimshal (Mr Mehruban Karim and Jehan baing) lost their lives. While surmounting massive K2. It is more lauded at international level because of the service they paid during the ascent and particularly Jehan baing’s, who dauntless went to rescue a Siberian climber. Who fell off below bottleneck and died, during rescuing him approximately at an elevation of more 8000m and lost his life.
The amazing climbing record holder of the history of Pakistan is Mr.Darbar Karim, paralyzed of Left side of body made his reach to the summit of Minglik Sar in the Age of 25 on 28th of June 2008.this has been an outstanding record in the history of Pakistan by this young disabled men.Gradually a large number of shimshalis have made incredible reputation in mountaineering history, today every foreign expedition without Shimshali (Climbers) high altitude porters, impossible to make their ascent successful. Shimshalis are genuine climbers and their presence in all category and class of expeditions realistic and success promising, till to date more the 26 shimshalis have successfully made their reach to the summit of various 8000m peaks in Pakistan and Nepal. The average summiteers of all 8000m in Pakistan are 1 % four 8000m 5 % and three 8000m 29 % two 8000m 65% and less then 8000m is many. The only resistance of Shimshali climbers to reveal their guts is lack of education, 98% of Shimshali climbers are illiterate, therefore they couldn’t make any platform to make this industry poplar and progressive in Pakistan, Government has never been keen to develop this industry or make any strategy in practical, to attract foreign climber, to make this industry a well progressive and reliable source of foreign exchange and provide opportunity for every willing climber domestically and foreign.
Shimshal nature trust (SNT) and other local tour operators have now developed the idea for a plate form from where immediate response will be given to the fabled mountaineers and will utilize their quality experience for future change ,we at Karakoram Expedition & Tours (a fresh tour operator) have strong policies to implement practical to boast adventurism and tourism in the country and give opportunity to every one (from domestic to foreign) to find our unmatched service and experience with highly veteran Climbers .those are part of our team and will assist every one on there adventure expedition and we challenge the like climbers else where in the world.
Mirza Ali

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